Week 2 - Kefalonia

Monday 17^th June (Day 55)

A beautiful sunny day today so after a leisurely breakfast we set off for Anti Samos beach, stopping on the way to buy a beach umbrella so that we can stay on the beach even longer without frying.  The sea was incredibly calm and so snorkelling was most definitely on the agenda.   The fish even went for Tracey’s homemade bread which made watching them even easier.

Tuesday 18^th June (Day 56)

After such a great day at the beach yesterday we decided to repeat the experience today.  The sea was not quite as calm but still lovely.  It is definitely hotter this week so the purchase of an umbrella has proved to be a good one.

Wednesday 19^th June (Day 57)

It was a scorcher today so we mooched around the cottage during the day seeking patches of shade around the garden.  On one of Tracey’s forays around the garden she spotted that the fig tree was laden with enormous ripe fruit and so we decided to pick some (see picture below).  We may be eating figs for some time!  Tracey has turned some into compote and the rest we will eat fresh with our yogurt for breakfast – delicious.

In the late afternoon we decided to go down to Aghia Efimia for a swim to cool off.  Naturally this had to be followed by a beer in our favourite café/bar (Fior d’Armour) and an ice cream to bring back to the cottage.  Diet, what diet?

R.I.P Uncle Roy.

Thursday 20^th June (Day 58)

We were getting ferry withdrawal symptoms so decided to get the ferry from across to the island of Ithaca today.  We took the car over with us so that we could explore as much of the island as possible.

It was an early start for us which meant leaving the cottage at 7.30 to get to the boat in time for an 8.30 sailing.  We decided to forego breakfast and have something once we got to Ithaca and so went straight to the main town of Vathi once we had docked for breakfast by the sea.  We then headed off to explore the northern end of the island including the villages of Stavros, Frikes and Kioni. 

It is many years since we have visited Ithaca and we had forgotten just how pretty it is.  It is particularly notable that Homer and Odysseus came from Ithaca so we felt that a pilgrimage to visit their home island was appropriate given our own odysseys over the last year.

It was very hot today so we stopped for a swim on the way back to ferry in one of the beautiful little coves which sit just down from the road.  Unfortunately, what we failed to notice was that there seemed to a lot of jelly fish around and Tracey got zapped on the arm.  No damage though just a bit of a sting for a while.  The ferry was a little late arriving and the heat was quite oppressive, even too hot for the Greek ladies who were on a day trip.  At least they were well equipped with fans, we wimped out and sat in the air conditioned car and lounge.

We stopped for a late afternoon swim on the way back to the cottage.  Thankfully Kefalonia appears to be jelly fish free!

Friday 21^st June (Day 59)

We decided to go for an early morning swim this morning before doing our shopping for the weekend in Aghia Efimia.  After a very sultry night the sea was beautiful and cool and very refreshing.  We got chatting to one of the older residents who comes down to swim every morning on the advice of his doctor, he is 78!  He told us that although he was born on the island he left when he was 18 for New York and only returned 10 years ago.  We have since worked out that he must have been one of the 100,000 people who left Kefalonia following the devastating earthquake in August 1953.

We then returned to the cottage for brunch and to take cover during the hottest part of the day returning for a late afternoon swim to cool off before going out for something to eat.

We went to the local taverna for supper tonight and Petrangelo had roasted a whole goat on the spit so we felt that it would have been rude to have anything else so bravely ordered and had our first taste of goat.  In fact it was very tasty and very similar to roast lamb.  Amanda and Russell were at the taverna when we arrived so we joined them and enjoyed a very pleasant evening together consuming too much of the local wine until the wee small hours.

Saturday 22^nd June (Day 60)

After our late night last night we had a slow start to the day today but decided to go to Myrtos beach for a swim and a little time on the beach for seeking sanctuary back at the cottage once it got too hot in the afternoon.  The rest of the day was spent in the shade trying to escape the heat for a while.  We are so grateful for the air conditioning in the cottage!

Sunday 23^rd June (Day 61)

We cleaned the cottage this morning with the air conditioning going before heading out to Anti Samos beach in the afternoon.  We stayed on the beach until about 7.00 o’clock before retreating to the beachside bar for Mark to partake of a cooling mojito before we headed back into Sami for a healthy supper of sea bream at Adonis taverna.  The temperature is due to drop slightly next week which will be quite a relief for us Northern Europeans who are finding the 30+ temperatures a little hard to cope with.  There is certainly more of a breeze tonight so can but hope.

Fig Harvest

 Breakfast nap, Vathy, Ithaca

 Frikes, Ithaca

Kioni, Ithaca

 "Jellyfish" beach, Ithaca

 The first Odyssey

Ithaca

Week 1 - Kefalonia

Monday 10^th June (Day 48)

Today was designated as admin day so after breakfast on the terrace we put some washing on and then headed out to do some food shopping in Aghia Efimia, our nearest village.  The owner of the cottage had very kindly left us welcome pack including a bottle of Kefalonian wine so all we needed to do was buy some ingredients to make meals to go with it. 

Tracey also needed a haircut and had been told about a new salon that had recently opened in Aghia Efimia so she set off to investigate.  Once she had established that she could have her haircut immediately I headed off to a nearby café to await her return.  About 20 minutes later she returned sporting her new haircut which she was very pleased with but was a bit miffed that the young lady who owns the salon had asked if she qualified for the pensioner rate!  I made all the right noises and said she looked younger with her new haircut which seemed to pacify her as she ordered a frappe and a slice of cake!

The owner of the supermarket recognised us and gave us 5 eggs from his mother’s chickens, I cannot imagine Sainsbury’s doing that!

As the sky clouded over in the afternoon I taught Tracey how to play chess as the cottage has a chess board. 

Tuesday 11^th June (Day 49)

It was a cloudy and sometimes rainy day today so we spent the day mooching about the cottage reading and playing chess.  Despite earlier predictions we were unable to watch Pointless we were unable to do so as the internet does not work here.

Wednesday 12^th June (Day 50)

We awoke to cloud this morning and decided to investigate the walking path that we had discovered last time we were here and to walk from the village to the beach at Myrtos.  It was a fairly easy walk through the valley until we reached the very steep decent to the beach itself.  We didn’t quite make it all the way down as it is 4 km up on the way back but we did get over half way and got our first look at the beautiful bay.

Thursday 13^th June (Day 51)

We decided to walk the other end of the walking path today and walk into the Aghia Efimia which is about 4km from the cottage.  It is all downhill on the way there but unfortunately this means it is all uphill on the way back.

We sat by the sea and ate our lunch and read our books before consuming a fortifying cup of coffee to prepare us for the return journey.  We arrived back from our walk to find some delicious homemade apple cake had been left on the table for us by the owner of the cottage.

Tracey beat me at chess tonight – I appear to have created a monster!

Friday 14^th June (Day 52)

The weather is but improved today so it was off to Anti Samos beach for a swim.  It was much busier than when we were last here in October 2012 but still as beautiful and gave us a chance to do some snorkelling.

We went to the local taverna for supper tonight and Pedrangelo had cooked a whole roast lamb on the spit so we could no more than order two portions and get stuck in.

Saturday 15^th June (Day 53)

We decided to go to Myrtos by car today for a swim.  Being a Saturday it was quite busy but I guess nothing compared to how it will be in July and August.  When the wind is in the right direction the waves can be quite impressive here and today was no exception.  It was then back to the cottage to pack our things for our move to Kalivaki cottage tomorrow.  This is the cottage we stayed in last year and we are there for 4 weeks this year until our return to the UK on 16^th July.

For the animal lovers amongst you we seem to have inherited a cat with this cottage.  We have called him Winky as he only seems to have one eye but an uncanny knack of knowing when a tin of tuna has been opened.

Sunday 16^th June (Day 54)

We were packed, breakfasted and ready to move by 11.00 but as the other cottage was not going to be ready until 2.00pm we headed off to Aghia Efimia to wait by the sea and enjoy the view.  If only all experiences of moving house could be so relaxing!

We arrived back at the new cottage (Kalivaki) at about 2.30pm and it felt great to be back.  Katerina (the owner) had provided us with yet another welcome pack so no need to go shopping for a couple of days. 

When we were here last year we adopted a cat and her kitten and we wondered if they would still be around this year.  Sure enough, just as we were leaving to go to the tavern for our supper, the kitten arrived at the front door but minus her mum.  We fed her some Friskies and gave her some water to drink but she was very nervous of us.  She does not appear to have grown much in 6 months and we are not sure what has happened to Mum but maybe we can fatten her up over the next few weeks.

Kitchen View (Polyanthi Cottage)

Two Hops to Kefalonia

Sunday 9 June (Day 47)

After  our last breakfast in the Aegean the hotel owner kindly gave us a lift to the airport.  Naxos airport isn’t an international airport and only deals with one flight a day.  We took a set close to the door and watched people check in.  There was a set of scales close by and most men weighed their luggage and then weighed themselves out of curiosity (me included), not one woman did this!

The flight from Naxos to Athens took just 30 minutes, just enough time for a quick drink before landing.  At Athens airport we went to the international food court where we chose Greek cuisine!!

The flight from Athens to Kefalonia took 50 minutes, we arrived just before a Thomas Cook flight so we managed to pick up our hire car before the queues formed.

It is great to be back in the village of Makriotika and to meet up with friends from last year.

I’m afraid there won’t be many blog updates over the next few weeks as it might become quite boring.  We will probably just be doing the following:

Sunny days = beach, probably either Myrtos or Antisamos

Cloudy days = walking

Rainy days = watching Pointless

P.S.  We’ve had many questions asking why we’ve missed out Crete.  We were intending to visit the island but we thought it was just too much hassle to get there, move from port to port once we were there and we have been there before anyway.

 View from the kitchen

Lost in Translation

Saturday 8 June (Day 46)

We were awoken this morning at seven thirty by frantic knocking on our room door.  I opened it to find Yorta saying “Mister, Miister, breakfast, breakfast”.  We traipsed upstairs for our breakfast which was brought to us at great haste.  We were a bit confused because the ferry didn’t leave until twenty to ten. 

While I was leisurely sipping my coffee Yorta pointed to her watch and the sea and said “Mister, Mister,Scopelitis, Scopelitis”!!  Oh, we thought, perhaps the ferry is leaving early, after all Yorta must know because there are only two ferries that call here and she has the benefit of local knowledge.

We hurried through our breakfast and went to get our cases.  Yorta and her sister-in-law threw them into the back of the car and we sped off, it was now ten past eight.  As we approached the sea Yorta ground to a halt raised her hands and said “where is Scopelitis”?  I showed her our tickets which had the departure time of 09:40 at which she put her head in hands and said “Octo, Octo”.  She obviously thought the ferry was leaving at eight.  She offered to take us back but as we like to be early we said carry on.  Yorta was very apologetic but we found it highly amusing and it did explain why she was so confused by our casual approach to breakfast.

The Scopelitis departed right on time and we arrived in Naxos at midday.  After we were settled into our hotel we went for a walk.  Tracey spotted a barbers so I popped in for a trim.  It’s much easier for us men, he grabbed the top of my hair and said “scissor”? and the back of my hair and said “machine”?  I nodded and off he went.  He did a very good job for 8 euros.

When we left Naxos Town a couple of weeks ago it felt like a small village but now it feels like a big city.  There was even more of the old town that we hadn’t seen before.  After a evening meal we treated ourselves to some ice cream, three scoops – cherry, Ferrero rocher and tiramisu, Scrummy!

Heath Robinson Crusoe

Tuesday 4 June (Day 42)

Today we took the road up the middle of the island to the highest point on Koufonissia (113m) where we had a great view of the surrounding islands of Amorgos, Naxos, Keros, Donousa, Schinoussa and Kato (lower) Koufonissia. 

We then went back to Portes Beach for  a swim before going to the restaurant Gastronautis.  I had scorpion fish which Tracey declared to be an ugly critter but was told by the waitress that he just ‘had an opinion’ (I think this means he had an attitude).

Wednesday 5 June (Day 43)

The ferry Blue Star Paros arrives (from Athens) in the Small Cyclades in the early hours of the morning and we are now getting used to it waking us up.  We were awoken early this morning by the arrival of some new guests.  At breakfast the owners mum looked a little blurry eyed so we tried to ask her what time she went to pick up the new guests.  However, she took this to mean that we needed to know the times of the Blue Star Paros ferry on Friday and she indicated that we should come to reception after breakfast for the answer.  Oh dear! 

We decided to try and avoid further confusion and sneak off for our walk but she spotted us and called us over.  Fortunately, one of the new guests is an American whose parents are Greek and he speaks both languages fluently.  We were straightened out the confusion and took the opportunity to make arrangements for our departure on the ferry on Saturday.

We walked along the coast as far as we could enjoying the fantastic scenery on the way before making our way back inland along a ‘footpath’ that was more like a goat track when you could find it at all.  As we had just started along the path we noticed a large bird sitting on a wall and approached it carefully so that I could take a photograph.  It was a strange looking bird and seemed unable to fly so we concluded that it must be the last surviving dodo but on further investigation it now appears to have been a guinea fowl.  Oh well, so much for our future as zoologists.

On returning to room I remembered that I wanted to take a photograph of where we are staying so returned back outside to take one.  I was immediately accosted by the owners mum (Yota) who asked if we wanted coffee.  I declined her offer as Tracey was in the process of making tea and she then insisted on me partaking of some local raki and bringing some back for Tracey who by this stage was wondering how many pictures I was taking.

Thursday 6 June (Day 44)

 As the weather was so nice today we went to Fanos beach and were lucky enough to bag one of the few spots under a tree.  We spent the day being very lazy only managing a swim and a saunter up to the beach café for a coffee late in the afternoon.

We decided to go a bit further afield for our supper tonight and went to a fish tavern on the other side of town.  We were given menus but told that there really was not much point in looking at them and that it would be better to simply go into the kitchen to see what they had.  We eventually chose some sardines wrapped in vine leaves, calamari (squid), baked vegetables and some lemon potatoes – delicious!

Friday 7 June (Day 45)

We spoke to the young American couple at breakfast this morning and discovered that they had eloped and got married on Santorini just a week or so ago.  This cannot have been easy as they are both from large Greek families who enjoy nothing better than a ‘big fat Greek wedding’.   The wife starts med school in the fall so they are enjoying an extended honeymoon in the Greek islands and visiting some of their extended family.

We went to the beach again today and had only been there a short while before it started to rain.  Using some bamboo sticks and a towel we were able to construct a rudimentary shelter but by the time we had finished it the sun had come back out so we converted it to a sunshade – genius!  Unfortunately I did not have my camera with me so there is no photographic evidence. 

Tomorrow we take the ferry back to Naxos and stay their one night before getting our flight to Athens and then on to Kefalonia for the next 5 weeks.  Here’s hoping for a smooth crossing and an even smoother flight on a very small prop engine aircraft.

View from the top

 More photos of rocks

 Portes House

 Guinea fowl (or dodo)

 A Scorpion fish

Pori and Poirot

Saturday 1 June (Day 39)

We’re not sure if it’s by accident or by design but every place we visit gets smaller and smaller and quieter and quieter.  The island of Koufonissia (only 2.5 miles in diameter ) is the smallest and quietest yet.

We left Amorgos at 6.00am and arrived in Koufonissia on the Express Skopelitis (our faithful ferry) at 9.30am.  Fotini is the owner of our current accommodation but as she is currently in Athens ‘on business’ we were met at the port by her mum.  Unfortunately, she doesn’t speak much English so it is difficult to have a proper conversation but we are getting by.  She drove us the short distance to our accommodation and immediately set about making us coffee and a toasted sandwich which was very welcome.

We have gone for the cheapest room so have a semi-submerged basement room but it is perfect for us as we do not intend to be inside for long.  Again, we appear to be the only ones here and have three staff waiting on our every need.

After unpacking we set off with our map to explore the island’s one and only town.  It being late morning on a Saturday you might have imagined that it would have been busy but you could not be further from the truth.  It was sleeping peacefully and it would appear that the only real activity of the day is the morning and evening ferry arrivals.  We estimate that there are about 30 tourists on the island as we keep seeing the same people.  However, it may be small but it is perfectly formed and we look forward to exploring further over the next few days.

Sunday 2 June (Day 40)

We were served a hearty breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea and the uninhabited island of Keros by Fotini’s mum and her aunt.  Her aunt speaks Greek and German but still no English so we are yet again resorting to school day German and hand gestures which seems to be working at the moment.

The place we are staying offers complimentary bicycles so we decided to borrow them and head off to Pori at the other end of the island.  Tracey was given a ladies bike and I was given what appeared to be a childs bike with small wheels and an even smaller frame.  However, I can report that the stabilisers had been removed.  Progress was slow as for a flat island it is remarkably hilly and we spent as much time pushing our bikes up the hills as riding them.

The island is surrounded by turquoise water and we are convinced that if you are looking for a budget alterative to the Maldives then this is quite possibly it.  Tracey did venture into the sea for a quick dip today but I watched manfully from the beach.

We wandered into town this evening and decided to eat at a modern looking tavern which billed itself as offering Mediterranean cuisine.  The food was delicious and very unlike normal Greek tavern fair which made a change and I particularly enjoyed my mojito risotto.

Monday 3 June (Day 41)

Having shunned the bikes after yesterday’s adventure we went for a walk around the other side of the island today.  We met a nice Belgian chap who was also doing the Cyclades island hopping experience.   We learnt from him that he had worked for a Belgian bank before he took early retirement and we shared island travel stories before going our separate ways.  In the afternoon we went back to the beach and both went for a swim – it was freezing although Tracey insists it is merely refreshing.

In the evening we went in search of something to eat and had just begun our meal when our Belgian friend came by and we invited him to join us for his meal because we have run out of things to say to each other now.  We spent a very enjoyable evening chatting to him and sharing travel stories before stumbling back along the road to our room.  We really should have remembered that torch!

Breakfast View (island of Keros in background)

 The main road goes across the beach!

 "Ven zu seagulls follow zu trawler"

 Car hire opportunities here are somewhat limited