Midlife Island Hopping: Pori and Poirot

Saturday 1 June (Day 39)

We’re not sure if it’s by accident or by design but every place we visit gets smaller and smaller and quieter and quieter. The island of Koufonissia (only 2.5 miles in diameter ) is the smallest and quietest yet.

We left Amorgos at 6.00am and arrived in Koufonissia on the Express Skopelitis (our faithful ferry) at 9.30am. Fotini is the owner of our current accommodation but as she is currently in Athens ‘on business’ we were met at the port by her mum. Unfortunately, she doesn’t speak much English so it is difficult to have a proper conversation but we are getting by. She drove us the short distance to our accommodation and immediately set about making us coffee and a toasted sandwich which was very welcome.

We have gone for the cheapest room so have a semi-submerged basement room but it is perfect for us as we do not intend to be inside for long. Again, we appear to be the only ones here and have three staff waiting on our every need.

After unpacking we set off with our map to explore the island’s one and only town. It being late morning on a Saturday you might have imagined that it would have been busy but you could not be further from the truth. It was sleeping peacefully and it would appear that the only real activity of the day is the morning and evening ferry arrivals. We estimate that there are about 30 tourists on the island as we keep seeing the same people. However, it may be small but it is perfectly formed and we look forward to exploring further over the next few days.

Sunday 2 June (Day 40)

We were served a hearty breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea and the uninhabited island of Keros by Fotini’s mum and her aunt. Her aunt speaks Greek and German but still no English so we are yet again resorting to school day German and hand gestures which seems to be working at the moment.

The place we are staying offers complimentary bicycles so we decided to borrow them and head off to Pori at the other end of the island. Tracey was given a ladies bike and I was given what appeared to be a childs bike with small wheels and an even smaller frame. However, I can report that the stabilisers had been removed. Progress was slow as for a flat island it is remarkably hilly and we spent as much time pushing our bikes up the hills as riding them.

The island is surrounded by turquoise water and we are convinced that if you are looking for a budget alterative to the Maldives then this is quite possibly it. Tracey did venture into the sea for a quick dip today but I watched manfully from the beach.

We wandered into town this evening and decided to eat at a modern looking tavern which billed itself as offering Mediterranean cuisine. The food was delicious and very unlike normal Greek tavern fair which made a change and I particularly enjoyed my mojito risotto.

Monday 3 June (Day 41)

Having shunned the bikes after yesterday’s adventure we went for a walk around the other side of the island today. We met a nice Belgian chap who was also doing the Cyclades island hopping experience. We learnt from him that he had worked for a Belgian bank before he took early retirement and we shared island travel stories before going our separate ways. In the afternoon we went back to the beach and both went for a swim – it was freezing although Tracey insists it is merely refreshing.

In the evening we went in search of something to eat and had just begun our meal when our Belgian friend came by and we invited him to join us for his meal because we have run out of things to say to each other now. We spent a very enjoyable evening chatting to him and sharing travel stories before stumbling back along the road to our room. We really should have remembered that torch!

Breakfast View (island of Keros in background)