Sunday, 30 April 2023

Annecy to Locarno


So far we have been super impressed with the European railway system, trains arrive and leave on time and there is lots of information online about platforms which makes life so much easier.  The Swiss take this to a whole new level!  The system seems to be incredibly well integrated with a level of coordination around connections that blows your mind!


Our journey from Annecy to Locarno saw us take 4 different trains all seamlessly knitted together to make for a very stress free trip.  The scenery on route was fantastic as we skirted the French alps, Lake Geneva and then through to the Swiss alps.  We even went through the longest railway tunnel in the world which takes you through the recently opened (2016) Gotthard Pass, 57 kilometres inside a mountain and it only took 20 minutes!  


Our original plan was to head to Zermatt after Annecy but our mantra for the trip has been ‘follow the sun’ and the weather in Zermatt definitely didn’t look great so we decided to head to Locarno on the shores of Lake Maggiore instead and we are very glad we did.  We arrived in the late afternoon with the sun shining and you could immediately feel the warmth.  The walk from the station to our hotel only took about 10 minutes, the town has a very Italian feel and there were lots of people out enjoying an early evening drink.  So naturally we had to join in.


Our first full day in Locarno so we decided to explore a little of the old town this morning before heading up to the Madonna del Sasso monastery to get a better view of the lake and town.  It was quite a climb up many steps but worth it for the views from the top.  Most people seem to use the funicular from the town but not us, we love arriving hot, sweaty and out of breath whenever possible.  The monastery is also the first point on the Swiss route of the Camino de Santiago but given the size of the mountains here I suspect there are much easier routes.


The cable car station is just across the road from the monastery but as we had forgotten to get our Ticino ticket from hotel reception which gives us a 30% reduction this will have to wait for another day.  


Day two and Mark had been reading about a very picturesque train route that goes from Locarno and into Italy.  As this was covered by our inter rail passes we decided to give it a go.  The route is called the Centovalle (100 valleys) and goes inland from the lake and up into the hills beyond.  


The start of the journey was from a very unpromising underground station near to our hotel but once we were out of the tunnel the views were incredible but definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights.


We decided to stay on until the end of the line in Domodosia which is a small town in Italy.  Another country we can tick off.  A quick wander and a coffee break followed before we bought ourselves some sandwiches and got back on the train for the return journey.


Everything is very expensive in Switzerland, for example £5.50 for a cappuccino snd £8 for a sandwich from a supermarket so we have been picnicking by the lake most evenings having found an Aldi Suisse.  Interestingly it was much cheaper in Italy where we paid £1.60 for a cappuccino.   During our picnic tonight we spotted a swan on her nest by the lake.  The council had put a fence around her to protect her and she is sitting on nine huge eggs.  She has become quite a local celebrity but she didn’t seem phased by all the attention.


As many of you will know Mark is a bit of a coffee snob but even he is struggling to bring himself to pay the price for a coffee in a cafe so we have resorted to getting coffee from McDonalds which is still £3.30 but it turns out they do a great mint tea for me too!  Oh how times have changed but if you ask him about it he will deny it ever happened.


Day three and Ticino tickets in hand we headed back up hill to the monastery and then onto the cable car for our trip up the mountain.  The cable car takes you up part of the way and although the views from there were amazing, we decided to walk on up to the summit which according to the signs would take us an hour.  1 3/4 hours later and a lot of huffing and puffing later we arrived at the summit.  It was a very steep climb but it was definitely worth the effort.  The views from the top were incredible and we were looking down on light aircraft below us.  The summit took us to 1670 metres above sea level.  Of course we then had to walk back down and are now feeling like our knees belong to someone much older!


We treated ourselves to a pizza in the piazza grande tonight and watched the comings and goings around the food truck festival which is taking place in Locarno this weekend.  There was also a band playing 70’s rock music so we felt very at home.


We had a fairly early start this morning as our train back to Zurich leaves at 8.35.  We are taking a different route back to the one we did on the way here so that we can see a bit more oAnnecy to Locarno


So far we have been super impressed with the European railway system, trains arrive and leave on time and there is lots of information online about platforms which makes life so much easier.  The Swiss take this to a whole new level!  The system seems to be incredibly well integrated with a level of coordination around connections that blows your mind!


Our journey from Annecy to Locarno saw us take 4 different trains all seamlessly knitted together to make for a very stress free trip.  The scenery on route was fantastic as we skirted the French alps, Lake Geneva and then through to the Swiss alps.  We even went through the longest railway tunnel in the world which takes you through the recently opened (2016) Gotthard Pass, 57 kilometres inside a mountain and it only took 20 minutes!  


Our original plan was to head to Zermatt after Annecy but our mantra for the trip has been ‘follow the sun’ and the weather in Zermatt definitely didn’t look great so we decided to head to Locarno on the shores of Lake Maggiore instead and we are very glad we did.  We arrived in the late afternoon with the sun shining and you could immediately feel the warmth.  The walk from the station to our hotel only took about 10 minutes, the town has a very Italian feel and there were lots of people out enjoying an early evening drink.  So naturally we had to join in.


Our first full day in Locarno so we decided to explore a little of the old town this morning before heading up to the Madonna del Sasso monastery to get a better view of the lake and town.  It was quite a climb up many steps but worth it for the views from the top.  Most people seem to use the funicular from the town but not us, we love arriving hot, sweaty and out of breath whenever possible.  The monastery is also the first point on the Swiss route of the Camino de Santiago but given the size of the mountains here I suspect there are much easier routes.


The cable car station is just across the road from the monastery but as we had forgotten to get our Ticino ticket from hotel reception which gives us a 30% reduction this will have to wait for another day.  


Day two and Mark had been reading about a very picturesque train route that goes from Locarno and into Italy.  As this was covered by our inter rail passes we decided to give it a go.  The route is called the Centovalle (100 valleys) and goes inland from the lake and up into the hills beyond.  


The start of the journey was from a very unpromising underground station near to our hotel but once we were out of the tunnel the views were incredible but definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights.


We decided to stay on until the end of the line in Domodosia which is a small town in Italy.  Another country we can tick off.  A quick wander and a coffee break followed before we bought ourselves some sandwiches and got back on the train for the return journey.


Everything is very expensive in Switzerland, for example £5.50 for a cappuccino snd £8 for a sandwich from a supermarket so we have been picnicking by the lake most evenings having found an Aldi Suisse.  Interestingly it was much cheaper in Italy where we paid £1.60 for a cappuccino.   During our picnic tonight we spotted a swan on her nest by the lake.  The council had put a fence around her to protect her and she is sitting on nine huge eggs.  She has become quite a local celebrity but she didn’t seem phased by all the attention.


As many of you will know Mark is a bit of a coffee snob but even he is struggling to bring himself to pay the price for a coffee in a cafe so we have resorted to getting coffee from McDonalds which is still £3.30 but it turns out they do a great mint tea for me too!  Oh how times have changed but if you ask him about it he will deny it ever happened.


Day three and Ticino tickets in hand we headed back up hill to the monastery and then onto the cable car for our trip up the mountain.  The cable car takes you up part of the way and although the views from there were amazing, we decided to walk on up to the summit which according to the signs would take us an hour.  1 3/4 hours later and a lot of huffing and puffing later we arrived at the summit.  It was a very steep climb but it was definitely worth the effort.  The views from the top were incredible and we were looking down on light aircraft below us.  The summit took us to 1670 metres above sea level.  Of course we then had to walk back down and are now feeling like our knees belong to someone much older!


We treated ourselves to a pizza in the piazza grande tonight and watched the comings and goings around the food truck festival which is taking place in Locarno this weekend.  There was also a band playing 70’s rock music so we felt very at home.


We had a fairly early start this morning as our train back to Zurich leaves at 8.35.  We are taking a different route back to the one we did on the way here so that we can see a bit more of Switzerland but given that it was raining when we left the hotel we are not sure how much we are going to see.  Next stop, Innsbruck, Austria!


f Switzerland but given that it was raining when we left the hotel we are not sure how much we are going to see.  Next stop, Innsbruck, Austria!


Madonna del Sasso Monastery






Not a promising start to the Centrovalle
























Tuesday, 25 April 2023

Bonjour Annecy

Having had lots of sea and sunshine over the last two weeks we thought it was time for a change and we are now in the beautiful town of Annecy in the French alps for some lakes and mountains.


After our long journey from southern Spain we were eager to get some mountain air so set off to explore our new home for the next few days.


The old town of Annecy is situated at the far end of Lake Annecy and is very picturesque.  It has been described as the Venice of the alps with a river running through it and is crossed by several stone bridges.  It was certainly very busy at ‘le weekend’ (French for the weekend) as the sun was shining and everyone was out and about enjoying the sunshine but it was the perfect place to wander around and people watch.


Annecy is also known for its cuisine which is typical of the haute-savoie region.  Think heavy on the cheese and you have it.  Local specialties such as raclette, fondue and tartiflette are aplenty here.  


There is a market here on Sunday, Tuesday & Friday mornings so as it was Sunday we thought we should probably get involved.  An huge array of stalls spread throughout the old town selling everything from fruit and veg to socks!


An obligatory stop at the bakery for pain au raisin and then coffee started the day perfectly and we then went for a wonder along the shores of the lake which is framed by mountains and looked stunning in the sunshine.


Monday brought a slight change in the weather so we set off to do a different walk and see the rest of the town as it was much quieter.  We headed up to the chateaux and then decided to try and get higher to get a birds-eye view of the lake.  We eventually came across a huge convent and then picked up a footpath leading up through the forest.  Much climbing later we did eventually get a great view of the lake through the trees and it was definitely worth the climb.


Tuesday was a little overcast and chilly but we were not daunted and after our usual breakfast of pasties from the bakery and coffee from our favourite ‘old school French cafe ‘we set out to explore the other side of the lake.  It is such a beautiful location and we can only guess at the water sports and activities that will take place in the summer months.


Having got a taste for lakes and mountains we are now planning our next stop, Locarno in Switzerland (not the Locarno in old town, Swindon). It is actually on the shores of Lake Maggiore but is in the Swiss side.  Only a 4 train journey so see you on the other side. 




Our favourite cafe in Annecy. It had the TT Linnet vibe











Sunday, 23 April 2023

Cadiz to Barcelona

Arrived in Barcelona after our 13 hour journey from Cadiz.


Tracey refused to pay the exorbitant prices for a hotel room in Barcelona so we booked two beds in a hostel close to the station.


Our dormitory consisted of 4 bunk beds so we had to share with 6 other people.  As it turned out Tracey was the only woman in the dorm.


After a surprisingly good night’s sleep and a different experience we boarded our train to Valence.  The train was a TGV inoui double decker so there were a 1,000 passengers on board.  The first class carriage was extremely comfortable and the only way we knew we’d crossed the border was text message from our phone provider.


Even though the train hit speeds of 187mph we still arrived 20 minutes late which gave us just 5 minutes to catch our connecting train to Annecy.


Along with 50 other passengers we rushed up a lengthy staircase over the station and down again. We reached the train doors just as they were closing. I was guillotined by them and was ready to admit defeat. Tracey was having none of this defeatism so she wrenched open the doors and pushed me in. We made it! 


The train was packed and even though we had first class tickets (of course) there was no way we were going to reach that carriage.


There were a couple of lads playing videos games loudly on their phones.

At one station three heavily armed SNFC police got on and announced that they wanted to see everyone’s tickets. I was so flustered I think I showed him the nectar card qr code on my phone. He seemed satisfied with that thought.  The two lads who were disturbing the whole carriage were fined for not having a ticket and they quietened down after that.


Now to explore Annecy…



Our dorm

Approaching Annecy





Friday, 21 April 2023

Seville to Cadiz

 Seville to Cadiz


Another day, another train!  A very chilled train journey today and in just under 2 hours we were in the southern Spanish coastal city of Cadiz.  Cadiz is situated on a narrow peninsula surrounded by sea on all sides with the old town situated at the tip of the peninsula.  


The old town is characterised by narrow winding streets which even after 4 days we were still struggling to negotiate but that is all part of the experience and meant that every time we went out we discovered something new.


Our friends Cris and Jane were joining us for our stay in Cadiz having spent the weekend in Madrid and we had booked an Airbnb apartment in the old town.  Our apartment was still being cleaned when we arrived so having met up with Cris and Jane and left our bags in safe keeping at the apartment, we set off to explore.


Being a coastal city Cadiz can be a little windy but it is was a beautiful sunny day and the breeze was very welcome.  Cris and Jane have been to Cadiz a few times before so took us on a brief tour of the town ending up at one of their favourite tapas bars, Casa Manteca, for a reviving glass of beer and to sample some delicious tapas.  Cris was in charge of ordering as he speaks much more Spanish than the rest of us and enjoys the challenge.  Tasty morsels were soon arriving to soak up the beer including tortillas de camerones, a lacy pancake packed with tiny shrimp, which were absolutely delicious!   


Refreshed we made our way back to the apartment to unpack and have a very much anticipated cup of English tea which tasted amazing.  Thank you Jane!  The apartment is fab and as this is the first time we have had access to a washing machine since leaving home we took full advantage and are pleased to report that we can now continue our travels with a bag full of clean clothes.


Cadiz is stunning and very easy to explore on foot.  It has beautiful beaches and a bustling town that gets quite busy during the day particularly if there are any cruise ships in port but quietens down in the evenings as day visitors disappear.  A visit to the camera obscura gave us a unique perspective of the city and it was strange to see washing blowing and people walking around in the reflected image.


We did sample some lovely sherry here too but our new favourite aperitif is Spanish vermouth, served very cold over lots of ice with a slice of orange, the perfect way to end (or start) the day.


We spent a very happy and relaxed few days with Cris and Jane eating, drinking, walking, swimming, talking and laughing.  It was great to have their company and we will miss them now that they have returned to the UK.  Thank you and hasta luego guys and remember, keep your cow well tied!  xx


We have boarded our last Spanish train today for the 13 hour journey from Cadiz to Barcelona and then out of Spain tomorrow.  The train is affectionately known as the ‘fast train to nowhere but the slow train to everywhere’.  If you are interested in reading a little more about this particular journey it was featured in a Guardian travel piece last year and here is the link:  https://amp.theguardian.com/travel/2022/apr/05/rail-route-of-the-month-barcelona-to-cadiz-the-slow-train-right-across-spain 


We have loved exploring Spain and will definitely be back.  Now for more adventures…


Our train to Cadiz






View from the Camera Obscura Tower




Casa Manteca



Sherry tasting




Vermouth tasting







After the sherry tasting



Tortillas de Camerones



Cris and Jane leaving us

Cris and Jane’s train back to Madrid



Our 13 hour route